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Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Interesting place, this Panama



I read somewhere recently that relocating to a foreign country is right up there with marriage and divorce on the stress meter. I believe it, because it's only been within the last month or so that I've really felt at home and at ease, i.e., have a workable understanding of the region and the culture.

Although the town of Boquete is small, it is just the bottom of the bowl, so to speak, as it is surrounded by mountains which in which lie the various communities: Palmira, Alto Boquete, Jaramillo, Volcancito, Bajo Mono, Alto Quiel, El Salto, El Santuario, Alto Lino, Las Naranjas, Palo Alto, etc. Roads to these outlying areas form a series of loops from the town, some a few miles long and others many miles, so folks are pretty far-flung for what generally is considered to be a small town. There is only one road in and out of Boquete, the road to and from David, but dozens of roads looping through the mountains. I think I've been on most of them now and have less fear of becoming hopelessly lost.

There is excellent information about Boquete on a new website, http://www.boquete.org/, including a map of Panama clearing showing Boquete's location in relation to the rest of the country.

It also has taken a while to become acclimated to the Panamanian culture. Here are a few things I've learned:

1) Panamanians are incapable of saying "no" to any request. Ask them for the impossible, and they'll assure you enthusiastically that it can and will be done. To refuse you would be a breach of something peculiarly Panamanian. It took a while to catch on to this, prior to which we thought we had landed in a country filed with liars. But there are subtle ways of knowing when "yes" means yes, when it means maybe, and when it means not in this lifetime. I can't explain it, but I know it when I hear it.

2) Panamanians are incapable of saying "I don't know" when asked directions. They may not have the remotest idea where a person lives or where a business is located, but they'll give you earnest directions anyway. I've found that I can trust such directions if, and only if, there is no hesitation prior to their response.

3) There is absolutely, positively nothing worth getting in a rush about. Whether something is done today, tomorrow, next week, or next month--hey, it's done, isn't it? We've developed patience neither of us ever had, and for the important things (plumbing, electrical, etc.) we've developed a network of contacts so that if one doesn't feel like doing anything that day (although he'll agree to take care of it immediately--see number 1, above), another one may be in the vicinity, need money, and drop by. Larry has developed the habit of rewarding workers with a beer or two upon their departure, which helps in ensuring their return as needed.

Steve and company have returned and currently are working on the waterfall and fish pond out back and a pergola/deck overlooking it. There's a rock formation already in place that's perfect for a cascading waterway. In fact, our property has no dearth of rocks, big and small. The entire area is rocky, of course, because of past volcanic eruptions, but I think we have more than our share. Those underground make it a real plain to dig (although the locals seem used to it), but the large rocks above ground make beautiful landscaping features. We also have pathways to construct throughout the upper gardens. We're getting lots of sun now and regular late afternoon showers, so all the plants are growing like mad. It's hard to believe that the property was a big mud hole nine months ago. The orchid house is filled with tendrils of plants about to burst into bloom, and a few already are blooming. I should have some good pictures soon.

I'm attaching a picture of Demaris' sister Iris and Iris' son Jose, the apple of the family's eye, taken at brother Angel's birthday party last Sunday. He, Jose, calls us Tia Bonnie and Tio Larry and includes us in all the family pictures he draws. (When Iris spanked him several weeks ago for fighting at school, he announced that he didn't want her to be his mother anymore, that he was going to live with Tia Bonnie and Tio Larry.) He's very bright and loves learning, so we paid his tuition at a private school this year ($40--but might as well be $4000 to his family). Every time we take Demaris home he demonstrates how much he's learning by dragging out all his books and papers.

Gotta take the gardener home. Send news from back home.